Thursday, July 20, 1967
8:30 AM 14,563
After breakfast With Kathy, David and I left for New Orleans. Kathy had decided that after two days of jaunting around she had better rest. She and Don haven’t been to New Orleans yet and they talked of joining us for the evening, but Don needs to study 4 to 5 hours every day and he wouldn’t be able to do that if they came. So they are planning a trip for their anniversary celebration.
Passed the lovely ante bellum homes in Pass Crhristian ( Chris-tee-ann), and the shrimp boats in the harbor. Got nearly to the toll bride and realized. we had spent our last 25 for popcorn at the movies, so back past the lovely home-admired the varied fences this time, and got gas so we could cash a travellers check.
Rt 90 (the Old Spanish Trail) is a 2 lane highway, with the beginnihgs of a 4 lane started. It goes through low pine forest, with a smattering of sweet gum and live oak.
9:15 AM 14,597
As we crossed into La. over a bridge crossing the Pearl River the country changed immediately to grassy swampland. The water we glimpsed occasionally was covered with white flowering water lilies, As 90 crossed the outlet of Lake Ponchatrain we could see the bridge carrying I 10 across the lake. Now the road is lined with fishing camps, and we can see the tide running in under the numerous bridges.
9:50 AM 14,625
At Rt 47 we turn south to head into the bayou. A new high bridge crossed the Mississipoi River gulf outlet, but it is not yet open so we wait on river traffic and cross on pontoon bridge. To our right we can see the skyline of New Orleans across the swamp. -and the city dump. Dead cypress, draped in Spanish moss rise above the water.
10:20 AM 14,631
Entering Chalmette Battlefield “The Battle of New Orleans” 1814. The reconstructed ramparts which overlook the field where the British charged–and lost 2,000 now have the Kaiser Aluminum plant on the far background. The Mississippi has taken over 850 feet of the battle line and the Beauregard Mansion is constructed on the former battlefield. The levee back of the mansion hid the Mississippi so we climbed it. The river is not as wide as the Ohio at Cinci, but large ships were anchored.
11:00 AM
Back through Chalmette and again s on 39 through little rundown river towns. We had planned to drive south on 39 and cross at Pointe a la Hache and go even further south on he delta. But since this would be a 160 Mile trip decided to cross to Belle Chasse on the free ferry. Bot sno-cones and potatoe chips to eat while crossing (only thing available.) Crossed the Mississippi in about 7 minutes, and even that was somewhat up river. It really is the muddy Mississippi, but the edges are flooded.
12:00 PM 14,649
Through the Belle Chasse Tunnell, N on 23. The crepe myrtle bushes blooming in the yards is the only beauty in this area. Commercial and dumpy houses with the smell of burning garbage. At Gretna turn on Business 90.
12:30 PM 14,659
French Quarter. Rampart and Dumaine. Jazz Museum. A very small museum, with Louie Armstrong’s first trumpet, and the .. steps from Mahogany Hall where Jass was first played. You can listen to Jazz recordings and see the history of Storyville–the Red Light District of New Orleans where Jazz was born! Reproductions of newspaper articles show in what low esteem Jazz was held by 1917 New Orleans– Music of the basement of life-without rhythm or melody. A young man told David that the best place to hear jazz now was the Red Garter.
I bought a French Quarter Book and we just started wandering down the picturesque streets. Balconies overhung the sidewalks everywhere with the lacy iron grill work as bannisters. Much of the area is unoccupied, but the are are many antique shops, gift shops, night clubs, art galleries. We wandered down Pirate Alley alongg St. Louis Cathedral and watched the artists. Bought a watercolor from William Collins and took a shot along Pirate Alley with my Exa of the same view, with his help, and the assurance that I couldn’t maka a bad with an Exa. Went into the Cathedral-the oldest in the US -finished in 1794. A trip into Jackson Square, from which we could see the Pontalbe buildings on either side. Built in 1848 to keep attention focused on the French Quarter section, they were the first apartment houses in the US. Stopped at the coffee shop and the donuts without a hole looked delicious, but I didn’t think I could take coffee with chicory so we didn’t wait to be served. Visited the Vieux Carre candle shop and it had every line of candles and candlesticks I’ve ever seen, including all accessories.
3:00 PM
Walking was getting a little tiresame, and the shops all began to look alike – although same of the antique places were really elegant–and as nothing musical came to life until 8:30, we
decided to start back to Deckers via the Lake Ponchatrain
Causeway which takes the highway 27 miles across the lake.
3:20 PM 14,668
Looking back we could see only the few skyscrapers and the high arched bridges over the Mississippi. The level of the land seemed to be below the lake. The usual smog hung over New Orleans.
Trip back along 190 and 90 seemedd short. Stopped to buy watermellons at 3 for $1.00 As we crossed back into Pass Christian it started raining. Have been lucky today. Temp about 80 and no rain until now.
5:30 PM 14,751
Back to Colony House–Kathy and Don’s apartment and our private one. Supper with the Deckers, and to bed early because David has a headache.