Palawan Island
Wednesday, March 9
Palawan is the most remote of the Philippines, stretching its long sausage shape for 270 miles, almost to Borneo. It has only 150 miles of roads leading from Puerto Princessa, the capital.
We were at the airport before daylight for the flight to Puerto Princessa. This 365 mile flight takes less than two hours but by boat it takes from four to five days.
As we came out of the airport, lines of tricycles waited for us to load for the short trip into town to the Rafols Hotel. The showers had a disturbing way of petering out just as you had confidently lathered up. A sign hanging above the dining room door told us, “In this hall is friendship and fellowship, but you must bring some with you”. And we did!
A half hour drive took us to a trail to the beach where bancas were waiting. The sea was quite rough. Pedro told us that if an outrigger springs a leak it will not sink and it is best to stay seated.. The water will come up to your neck, and if you stand up it will still come to your neck, but you will be safe until help comes.
A half hour ride brought us to Pandan Island where we landed on the white sand beach. The open shells of departed giant clam lay at the base of a coconut tree. Shelling competed with birding. Here I became acquainted with Lolita Lizano who had joined us to produce an ecology film for TV station DP-GT4 in Manila. With her was Emeterio Borromeo who carried a 16 mm Bolex and a Nikon with an assortment of lenses.
We enjoyed snorkeling and swimming in the crystal clear water. Groupers and scorpion fish swam around a rusting wreck. We loaded our shell treasures and headed for a mangrove island were the receding tide revealed a sea cucumber. Bob Fischgrund picked one up and I stroke the shiny black skin.
It was almost dark and the sea was rough as we headed back to Puerta Princessa. I was clinging to the center pole of the boat with both hands and felt as if I were riding a merry-go-round. At times the sea spraying from the prow of the boat was bio-luminescencent . My delight wasn’t diminished by the scientific explanations that it was plankton, jellyfish and comb jellies.
After two and one-half hours at sea we saw the lights of a large ship anchored at Puerto Princessa. I was grateful for the brown hands reaching to pull me out of the banca and up the ladder to dry land.