Thursday, March 10
By 5 A.M. we were in jeeps heading across Palawan for Baheli. The road that started out in a grand way gradually deteriorated as we climbed the mountain. As fog condensed on the windshield the driver stopped and the boy riding on the rear steps ran to the front to wipe away the fog and dust from the windshield. At a sudden stop just at dawn near the top of the mountain we found that the jeep had a broken axle! The driver repaired it while we investigated the open air school in a hut nearby and collected passion fruit.
By 8 A.M. we had come down into Baheli on the west side of the mountains. The grass huts comprising the village are along the Ulugan River. But civilization was evident in the stacks of empty soft drink and beer bottles in cases piled eight feet high. We boarded bancas and when the river widened into an estuary we passed a checkpoint and our boatman climbed into the bamboo “office” to have our papers properly stamped. This was to protect our safety in case we didn’t return when expected.
After about an hour we came to the open sea and headed north along the coast. Our banca put in at a white sand beach. The only sign of development of the national park was a sign suspended hanging crookedly between two trees reading “St. Paul’s Subterranean River National Park.”
In the sand under the trees were hand-like prints of monkeys. As I peered into the dense vegetation I realized the problems early plant explorers had in seeking the species we now accept as part of our horticultural heritage.
Two by two we entered the cave in the dugouts. It widened into a huge cavern hung with draperies of stone with small passages leading in all directions. We soon became aware of the bats gliding on silent wings above us emitting high squeaks. The river is also the home of the edible nest of the swifts beloved by Chinese chefs.
On the beach we ate, swam in the lagoon where the river emerged, dried our clothes, caught butterflies and watched the mud skippers and birds.
We were entertained on the two-hour drive down the mountain in the dark by Lil’s amazing repertoire of songs. Back at the village open air store I bought a coke for three pesos and a beautifully woven hat for two pesos—a peculiar sense of value!.